Surf legend, big-wave pioneer and explorer, and the first European to participate in the Eddie Aikau Big Wave Invitational.
“It will remain etched in our surf history. Everything he writes here is fascinating, and I would recommend it to readers of all kinds.”
“It will remain etched in our surf history. Everything he writes here is fascinating, and I would recommend this to readers of all kinds.”
Some opinions about the book
Félip Niegà
Former director of the Nº 1 surf magazine in Spain, and surf-exhibition curator.
“The best book in Spanish on surfing that I have never had the pleasure of reading.”
Janire Virgala
Longboarder
“What I like most is the combination of local characters and world surfing legends, and the way he writes with a closeness that helps you to relive sensations ”
Sancho Rodríguez
Founder and Director of the Surfilm Festibal
“An important book for surfers, but the average reader will find lots in the author’s story too. (…) The perspective of a surfer who observes the world.”
Axi Muniain
Big wave rider, European with the most nominations at the XXL Awards.
“The book that the surf community needed, now that the heart of surfing is in such turbulence. (…) It has the power to attract even those of us who are not avid readers.”
Joxerra Garzia
Writer and editor
“Although it can also be read as a short novel or an adventure book, I think it is more of a literary essay. The author draws on his personal experiences to address topics such as the direction the world is taking, hedonism, developmentalism, greed, and the need for balance.”
Others
– “An authentic book with a salt-water flavor.”
– “An addictive book, you won’t be able to stop reading until you’re finished.”
– “I identified deeply with these stories of surfing in childhood and adolescence.”
– “Aside from enjoying the reading experience, I learned tons about the surf world.”
